Exosomes

Exosomes are a type of extracellular vesicle, which is a small particle surrounded by a lipid layer. These nano-sized, cell-communicating pouches cannot divide like cells but instead transport materials integral to cells’ health, like proteins, lipids, nucleic acids and growth factors, between cells. Exosomes aren’t exclusive to humans (where they’re most notably found in stem cells, and bodily fluids): they’re also found in plants and animals. Although they’re all the rage right now, research confirming their topical efficaciousness and how to best isolate, stabilize and validate their results is limited but potentially promising. In theory, exosomes can help restore and rejuvenate skin cells impacted by aging, senescence, stress and environmental damage. They do this via the delivery of vital substances that support healthy collagen and elastin levels, combat enzymes that break down the extracellular matrix, help soothe and repair and serve as antioxidants. Some researchers are optimistic that exosome technology will be able to deliver visible benefits to aging skin previously thought impossible, but these benefits, such as helping to reverse facial fat atrophy, remain to be proven. When used on skin, they’re most often applied after in-office treatments and procedures like microneedling and peels because exosomes cannot penetrate the epidermis without assistance. In-office procedures provide them with a “gateway” to get into skin and get to work. However, some cosmetic brands claim they’ve found a way to formulate exosomes to penetrate skin without a procedure-assisted gateway. In the cosmetic realm, there are three types of exosomes: 1) Natural, meaning derived from plants or animals. Although these tiny exosomes are structurally intact, they are less stable than other types. 2) Synthetic, mimics the properties of natural, but with a different molecular structure that’s consistent and stable. 3) Modified, which fuses natural and synthetic exosomes. Their contents and surface charge (which impacts their ability to cling to skin) can be customized. It may seem counter-intuitive, but the synthetic and hybrid exosomes for cosmetics have the best position for potential efficacy, stability, standardization, safety and consistent results. Another area where exosomes are generating enthusiasm is as a delivery system. Their small size and general biocompatibility with skin’s surface can be used to deliver other cosmetic ingredients such as antioxidants and soothing agents further into skin, potentially enhancing or prolonging their benefits. The research regarding exosomes for skin is exciting, but still in the beginning stages. There are few in-vivo studies, with most preclinical studies focused on gathering info on exosomes and their methods of action. Beyond this, medical researchers have yet to determine a standardized isolation and validation technique for exosomes (which would make sure all exosomes extracted only transport beneficial substances) and continue to struggle to nail down realistic preservation practices. There’s also still mystery behind how to best formulate for skin penetration and inclusion within cosmetics. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has yet to review exosomes and predictable use levels have not been established for cosmetics. Outside of skin care, research is determining medical applications for these interesting cell-communicators.