What is ectoin and how does it help your skin? At Paula’s Choice, we love to explore and analyse research and spread the word about truly beneficial, emerging ingredients on the skincare scene. One that’s been getting a lot of attention recently is ectoin (“ek-toe-een”), often referred to as “the new niacinamide”. The original version of this article was reviewed by Dr. Corey L. Hartman, dermatologist But is that an accurate description? Does ectoin have the power to “dethrone” niacinamide? Here we take a deep dive into ectoin – its benefits, who it’s good for and how to use it – to get to the bottom of the ingredient hype and help you decide if it’s something you should add to your routine. What you can expect: What is ectoin? How does ectoin work? Ectoin skin benefits Who should (and shouldn’t) use ectoin? How to use ectoin in your skincare routine Using ectoin with other skincare ingredients How does ectoin compare to other skincare ingredients? Is ectoin safe? How to find the best ectoin skincare products What is ectoin? The ectoin ingredient (sometimes spelt “ectoine”) is an amino acid derivative and extremolyte. Amino acids are the organic compounds that function as the building blocks of proteins and peptides. Extremolytes help protect cells that exist in extreme conditions – we’re talking high salt-to-water ratios, high pressure and drastic temperatures. Knowing this, it makes sense that ectoin was originally found in bacteria that live and thrive in high-salt lake environments. The science says that ectoin serves to protect bacteria from damage caused by environmental stressors as it works to stabilise enzymes, proteins and nucleic acids. In short, ectoin proves to be an excellent defender against even the most extreme environmental conditions. Is ectoin a natural ingredient? Ectoin can be sourced from naturally occurring halophilic (salt-loving) bacteria. That said, researchers can also lab-synthesise ectoin in a way that doesn’t compromises its abilities to benefit skin, but actually makes those benefits more predictable, sustainable and stable than ectoin natural. How does ectoin work? Ectoin works by putting up a defence around the skin, protecting it from environmental factors like UVA rays and pollutants. Ectoin is good for skin because it excels at preventing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) thanks to how it can decrease stressors in the human stratum corneum (the outer layer of skin) when exposed to harsh, drying environments. Ectoin skin benefits So, what does ectoin do for skin? Softens & smooths skin thanks to its ability to prevent water loss & boost the microbiome Diminishes signs of ageing because it functions as an antioxidant, helping neutralise free radical damage Reduces visible signs of UVA radiation damage (like uneven tone) because of its ability to defend against pro-ageing harmful rays Soothes skin so it has fewer signs of stress & sensitivity Is ectoin anti-ageing? Yes. Ectoin is good for anti-ageing concerns because it helps fight off two of the major factors that lead to visible skin ageing – UVA damage, which can penetrate through windows and is a leading cause of wrinkles, and oxidative stress, whose cumulative exposure leads to wrinkles in addition to uneven tone, roughness and dark spots. Who should (and shouldn’t) use ectoin? Now that we know ectoin has microbiome-boosting, hydrating and anti-ageing skin benefits, you’re probably wondering if it’s compatible with your own concerns. Thankfully, this is another area in which ectoin truly shines – everyone can benefit from it! Because of its ability to normalise skin hydration and reduce TEWL, it is also effective if you have a compromised barrier, dry or dehydrated skin. It's also a superhero for stressed skin. So, if your skin's under pressure or the elements are chipping away at your dermis, ectoin is the choice for you! If you’re worried about ectoin’s moisturising properties on oily or acne-prone skin, there is more good news: no current research shows that ectoin clogs pores or worsens oiliness. In fact, there are studies showing how topical ectoin can actually help skin maintain a more balanced microbiome, which is great for acne-prone skin. How to use ectoin in your skincare routine Because there’s a lot of information about ectoin working to maintain overall skin health, there are a growing number of skin products with ectoin. They might come in the form of an ectoin cream, serum or even a booster or essence. To incorporate ectoin into your existing routine, simply select the type of product you feel is best for you and follow with your usual steps. In other words, if you have an ectoin serum, booster or treatment, use it after cleansing, toning and exfoliating. If you’re using an ectoin cream in the PM, apply it after the rest of your products. Or, if you choose an SPF with ectoin, make sure it’s the last step of your AM routine. Using ectoin with other skincare ingredients Ectoin’s probably sounding pretty good to you right now as a skincare ingredient – and here’s another perk: it plays well with others. There is no evidence that ectoin reduces the efficacy of other skincare ingredients. In fact, it’s an excellent idea to pair ectoin with your favourite skincare actives like vitamin C, because of its ability to assist in combating irritation. Can you use ectoin and retinol together? Yes, you can absolutely use ectoin with retinoid and retinol skincare products. Ectoin’s protective and hydrating benefits mean it can serve as a buffer against the undesired responses to retinol (like redness and flakiness) that some people experience. How does ectoin compare to other skincare ingredients? Ectoin’s multi-tasking benefits naturally make us want to draw it up against other ingredients. The issue with playing the “what’s better” game is that it’s never a fair comparison. Ectoin isn’t “better” than the top current skincare ingredients – it is complementary to them. At Paula’s Choice Skincare, we advocate using varied ingredients for a synergistic approach that ultimately leads to (or, even better, exceeds) the results you want for your skin. Ectoin vs niacinamide Although some publications and skincare influencers frame ectoin as “the new niacinamide”, that’s essentially not true and does both ingredients a disservice. There’s certainly some overlap in how they function, as both are antioxidants and skin-restoring ingredients and (just as with niacinamide) ectoin defends skin against moisture loss and dehydration. On the other hand, there is not the depth or breadth of research yet showing that ectoin shares the same niacinamide benefits for enlarged pores, oily skin or areas of discolouration or uneven tone. Think of niacinamide as specialising in uneven tone and oil-balancing, and ectoin as a hydration-enhancing, stress-busting, barrier-soothing champion. Ectoin vs hyaluronic acid Also, ectoin for skin is not necessarily better than hyaluronic acid just because it has more multifaceted benefits. If you have very dry or dehydrated skin, you’ll still want to consider using both ingredients to make sure your skin receives maximum moisture. Using hyaluronic acid and ectoin will result in visibly plumped skin as well as less flakiness and tightness in a quick turnover. Think of them as the best power couple for plumped, hydrated skin! Is ectoin safe? “None of its properties suggest that ectoin would harm the skin in any way,” says dermatologist Dr Corey Hartman. The research says that topically applying ectoin is safe for skin – no studies currently indicate any adverse effects when using it to target multiple skin concerns, including dehydration, signs of ageing and breakouts. It is even recommended to help stave off signs of irritation, whether from environmental factors or overuse of active skincare ingredients. How to find the best ectoin skincare products Paula’s Choice’s philosophy on a good product comes into play when finding the best of ectoin skincare. First, you’ll want to make sure that the ectoin product you’re using is packaged properly. Remember, it’s an antioxidant – and they are delicate and can break down in the presence of light and air. This means skincare packaging matters! Avoid transparent containers, jars or other types of packaging that will expose your ectoin product to light and air and essentially cause degradation. Second, avoid fragrance (both natural and synthetic) and harsh, irritating ingredients that cause skin sensitisation. Though ectoin can help fight signs of irritation, there’s no need to make it do double work! Third, consider using ectoin in leave-on formulas (like the previously mentioned moisturisers, serums or boosters) that will stay on skin for longer, giving it more time to work its magic. With all that we now know about ectoin, we’re even more excited to see what continuing research will show in the future – it is definitely an ingredient to watch as scientists uncover more ways that it helps skin of all ages look and feel healthier. References for this information: 3Biotech, October 2022, pages 1-14 Processes, January 2023, pages 1-14 Dermatology and Therapy, June 2022, pages 1603-1613 Biochemistry and Biophysics Reports, December 2021, pages 1-7 Asian Journal of Beauty and Cosmetology, August 2018, pages 437-447 Applied Sciences, August 2022, pages 1-12 Polish Journal of Allergology, June 2024, pages 173-179 Scientific Reports, April 2019, pages 1-8 International Journal of Cosmetic Science, October 2021, pages 495-509 Our Dermatology Online, July 2022, pages 240-247 Molecules, March 2020, pages 1-14 Cosmetics, June 2023, pages 1-12